Packing List
Tools
alarm clock/watch (batteries?)
Pay particular attention to the needs of your watch for batteries, as these are quite specialized; one is unlikely to be available when you most need it. It's also useful to know how to use your watch as a compass when the sun is shining. If you're inclined to wearing a Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin (or even a Rolex or TAG Heuer), you might consider something a bit less attractive to thieves when travelling far from home; an inexpensive Timex still keeps time very well.
A watch (or cell phone, if you carry one) with a built-in alarm may well be the optimal go-light choice, but I've always been partial to a separate, easy-to-read-at-night travel alarm clock. I've tried several over the years, so can report with some confidence that you'll be hard pressed to find one better than the L.L.Bean Nightfinder II (pictured at right in one of its many available colours). It provides both time (12/24-hour) and temperature (Fahrenheit/Celsius) displays, and folds very flat for packing (with all controls safely covered). When opened, you tap the front to illuminate the display for eight seconds, and/or initiate the alarm's "snooze" function. And adjusting the time and alarm settings is very quick and simple. I'd prefer that it used AA batteries, but its AAAs are an acceptable alternative, and this is a pretty minor complaint about a very well designed product. Business travellers may also find this a useful tool when giving presentations or the like: it's much less annoying/obtrusive than continually checking your watch.
flashlight, headstrap, extra batteries (bulbs?)
City dwellers in developed countries might be surprised at how dark most of the world gets when the sun goes down. A flashlight (torch) will often be a necessity, for navigating dark streets, late-night reading, finding your way to the toilet, coping with power failures, exploring lava tubes in Hawai'i, and more. If you've ever tried to find something in an overhead compartment on a night flight, you'll appreciate just how useful a good light can be (not to mention that it might well save your life in the event of a disaster like a hotel fire or plane crash).
Recently, however, the advent of high-intensity light-emitting diodes (LEDs) has revolutionized this market, not to mention flooding it with a huge variety of LED flashlight designs. Alas, it's not particularly easy to separate the wheat from the (considerable) chaff, though there are many who delight in spending countless hours discussing the subject. The difficulty lies in the several conflicting goals, especially brightness vs. battery life. Most of these flashlights target the "high brightness" end of the market; the traveller, though, has an overriding interest in battery concerns, both longevity and ubiquity (the latter pretty much mandating the AA size).
Good LED flashlights incorporate sophisticated battery management electronics, making them considerably more expensive than traditional incandescent models. The added cost brings considerable benefits, however:
- For a given amount of brightness, these lights consume electricity at a dramatically slower rate than the older technology; you will buy (and lug around) far fewer batteries over the years.
- LED emitters easily outlast conventional bulbs; they may well outlast you.
- Better models provide much greater flexibility of use, offering a variety of selectable light outputs; you can choose among low-power modes that will suffice for most uses (and yield phenomenal battery life) and high-power modes that will illuminate the darkest path, and almost blind anyone whose eyes happen to be hit directly by the beam.
- As their batteries weaken, LEDs gradually become dimmer; they don't fade as abruptly — and thus annoyingly — as incandescent bulbs.
A minor downside of LEDs is that they do not provide a perfectly white light; if you require absolute colour accuracy for some reason, stick with the Mini Maglite (and carry spare batteries and at least one spare bulb). [In this regard, note that variations in the tint of "white" LEDs are very common. If you order online, you get what you get, but if you are purchasing off a rack, you can often test and compare several lights to find the best LED. Look for a cast that tends more toward yellow than blue. That said, the typical LED light is perfectly acceptable for most purposes.]
I have recommended a variety of LED lights over the years, as the technology has evolved. I began with the second-generation Inova X1, which offered similar illumination to the classic Mini Maglite, using a single AA battery that lasted for 8 hours (the Maglite devoured two batteries in about an hour); unfortunately, the manufacturer again changed the design of this light, much to its detriment. I then advocated the Fenix L2D CE, an early exemplar of contemporary LED light design, subsequently replaced by the improved Fenix LD20, still an excellent light choice. I currently favour two models by 4Sevens, a long-time retailer of high-end LED lights that now designs and markets a brand of its own, with notable results.
The 4Sevens Quark AA² (shown in the centre at right, next to a U.S. 25¢ coin for size comparison) is an excellent design that provides a bright, well-focused output, five current-regulated illumination levels, four operating modes (continuous, strobe, beacon, and S-O-S), and uses a pair of AA batteries (alkaline, rechargeable NiMH, or lithium). This is not your father's flashlight! The batteries will still be producing light after an astonishing month(!) of continuous usage at the lowest power setting ("moonlight", which provides a fifth of a lumen of light, enough to read by in a darkened room); at its maximum setting, this light can deliver a blinding 206 lumens (but only for an hour or so: see chart below). The 0.86" (2.2cm) diameter black, type III hard-anodized, aircraft-grade T-6061 aluminum body is 5.8" (14.7cm) long, and weighs 3.8 ounces (109g) with batteries; thread edges are cut square to minimize the chance of damage when replacing batteries. It's also waterproof (to the IEC 60529 IPX8 standard), and its push-button tail cap switch is recessed into the body, reducing the chance of it being accidentally pressed (this also allows the flashlight to stand upright on a flat horizontal surface, serving as an "electronic candle"). The Quark AA² incorporates a reversible/removable spring clip, and comes complete with a belt holster, lanyard, rubber hand grip accessory, two spare O-rings, batteries, and a ten-year warranty. A superb light.
All of this said, I think that the Quark AA² is overkill for the majority of travellers (exceptions being serious flashlight enthusiasts and the terminally-gadget-addicted). For considerably less money you can buy a model that is every bit as good for the preponderance of lighting needs that typical travel is likely to engender. In addition to being two-thirds the price, it's only two-fifths the size and weight, easier to operate, and — with but a single moving part (compared to five) — elegant beyond description.
| Models | Light Levels in lumens/hours |
Special Modes |
| Mini Maglite | 9/1 | none |
| Inova X1 (v2) | 10/8 | none |
| Fenix LD20 | 9/71, 47/13, 94/5, 180/2 |
strobe, S-O-S |
| Quark AA² | 0.2/720, 4/60, 22/24, 85/5, 206/1.3 |
strobe, S-O-S, beacon |
| Quark MiNi AA | 2.7/60, 25/18, 90/1.3 |
strobe, S-O-S, beacon (hi), beacon (lo) |
With any flashlight, if you plan a lot of high-power usage, you'll be better served with rechargeable NiMH or lithium cells, which last longer when using the higher current modes. For that matter, lithium batteries are the best all-around choice for travellers: they're a bit lighter, perform better in cold temperatures, don't leak when left unattended, and have a long (~15-year) shelf life. It's important, though, that your light be able to use off-the-shelf alkaline cells should the need arise. Incidentally, lubricating the O-rings with a touch of inexpensive silicone grease (available at any hardware store) is a wise maintenance measure.
The usefulness of any light is increased if you are able to operate it "hands-free". Alas, the excellent — inexpensive, lightweight, adjustable, comfortable, holds lights for both straight-ahead and angled-downward illumination — "Jakstrap®" (pictured at right with a Mini Maglite), was discontinued some time ago (though you may still be able to find a few remaining in shops). And I have yet to find a replacement that I can recommend.
Some address the "hands-free" desire by using a headband-style light, such as the popular Petzl Tikka Plus 2 LED Headlamp. Aside from its obvious single advantage, however, I don't think this solution stacks up well against the similarly-priced Quark light that I recommend. It's twice as heavy, considerably more bulky, less bright, less rugged (plastic), and non-waterproof; further, it offers fewer lighting modes, and uses three time as many (less-common AAA) batteries. I prefer the pocket-friendliness and greater flexibility of the MiNi AA.
multipurpose tool, scissors
The term Swiss Army knife
has become part of the language. They are manufactured by both Victorinox and Wenger (I prefer the former's quality). In recent years, however, their position has been largely usurped by the Leatherman tools, which are extremely well made and add a powerful pair of pliers to the toolset (and have spawned numerous imitators, most of poorer quality); this is what I now prefer.
Knives and Air Travel: Over the years, I have traveled on countless planes with either my Leatherman tool or a Swiss Army knife, without incident. Since 11 September 2001, unfortunately, knives (however small) have been banned from carry-on luggage. Luckily, you can buy an inexpensive kitchen knife just about anywhere you are likely to travel (even France's legendary Opinel folding knife, a travel design classic, can be found for around $10).
But the restriction does make a multipurpose tool somewhat problematic. Even the Leatherman Knifeless Fuse violates the seven-inch rule imposed by the TSA on U.S. flights. And in other countries, of course, different rules apply; some simply prohibit tools altogether.
Other options? If it's a short trip, leave the tool at home. If you're heading off for a round-the-world experience (or even a month in Europe), you might consider checking your bag: most of your travels will not be on planes anyway, and risking an occasional checked bag might well be worth the value of having such a tool with you. You can also place the tool in a checked package (a plain cardboard box, or your "emergency" duffel), separate from your carry-on bag; if you choose this route, fill the package with something (even crumpled newspaper) to give it some heft, and stop the tool from rattling around.
Should your preferred tool not include them (or you decide not to carry such a tool), add a pair of compact, folding scissors; you'll be surprised at how often you use these. Again, though, they might not make it past airport security checks, depending on the country and its "rules of the day".
spoon (fork? chopsticks? spork?),
(coffee tin lid) plate or bowl
One sure way to reduce travel expenses is to limit the number of restaurant meals. Breakfast at your B&B is one way. Picnics are another. Cost savings aside, a lunch in the park, with fresh bread, cheese, yogurt, and fruit from the local shops, is likely to be more memorable than another tourist trap pizza. In addition to your knife, you will likely want a spoon; a good (light, strong) choice is one made from Lexan polycarbonate.
Optional utensils include a fork and a pair of chopsticks (or, as I prefer, the Japanese-style hashi). I am not an advocate of the conventional "spork" (though this spoon/fork combination has an undeniably catchy name, dating back to at least 1909). To me, it has always seemed a marriage of the worst of both instruments: 
a fork with too-short/thick tines that also serves as a spoon with drainage slots in the bowl. But clever Scandinavian designer Joachim Nordwall has come up with the Light My Fire® Spork (shown at right), a polycarbonate version that turns the usual configuration on its end, and even throws in a sort-of-knife (but not enough to excite airport security) for good measure. Available in a variety of colours, it's strong, light, and (especially when purchased in a multipack) inexpensive. Getting a few extras is not a bad idea in any event, as you will likely use some as presents: when people first see them, they invariably want one for themselves! These have also recently become available in a titanium version, though I prefer the original (which doesn't look strange on an X-ray search). And if you're planning to host a party while on the road, there's now — wait for it — a serving size as well. Really!
What to eat on? Long-time travellers know that the plastic lids used to reseal large coffee (and other) tins make great plates on which to slice fruit, etc., but if you can tolerate a bit more weight (2.8 oz. / 8g), 
consider one of Sea to Summit's collapsible X Bowls (pictured at left), a modest-sized 6 × 2.25 inch (15 × 5.5cm) bowl that holds 22 fl. oz. (650ml) and packs reasonably flat (0.625 inch / 1.6cm). It joins a rigid, cut-resistant food-grade nylon base (which can be used as a cutting board) to walls made of flexible food-grade silicone (which withstand temperatures well above the boiling point, and make pouring liquids easy).
compass
Not just for backcountry hikers, a simple compass can be invaluable in helping you navigate the urban mazes of the world. When you emerge from the London subway onto Oxford Street for the first time, how will you otherwise know in which direction to walk to reach Selfridges? And although a compass is more generally useful, it's possible, if you know the correct time, to accurately orient yourself using the sun.
whistle
A good whistle is a cheap security investment, able to sound an alarm, summon taxis, deter muggers & other unwanted attention, help others find you if you are lost or hurt, and even (as one reader commented) convince a doorman to let you depart a nightclub immediately, rather than wait around disputing your bill.
Louder is better: the loudest mouth-blown whistle you can buy is the justly famous 120dB "Storm", though, at approximately 3×2×7/8 inches, some will find it a bit large for everyday carrying. Excellent smaller alternatives are the 115dB "Fox 40 Mini" (2×3/4×5/8 inches, the one I carry), and even tinier 110dB "Fox 40 Micro" (2×1×3/8 inches, pictured at right). The Fox whistles have an additional advantage: they are "pea-less" (instead of a tiny internal ball, they create their warbling pitch using three sound chambers), which allows them to function even in extremely cold weather.
door stop
Should you stay at places where the security may be less than what you would wish, an inexpensive wedge-type rubber door stop, jammed solidly under the door at night (as far from the door hinges as possible), will provide you with a good measure of additional protection against unexpected visitors. Doors are hung at various heights, so don't get one too thin.
That said, rough/uneven floor surfaces (especially some types of carpet) reduce the efficiency of rubber wedges, possibly enabling a sufficiently motivated miscreant to force the door open anyway (although you are unlikely to sleep through the event). For more serious security, consider a Veritas® Traveller's Doorstop (pictured at left); this hefty (7.1 oz, 201g) chunk of solid aluminum features a hardened steel anti-slip screw adjustment to tighten the wedge against the door, and prevent slippage across the floor. A door thus secured will break long before it opens (someone trying hard enough might damage the carpet a bit, but better that than you). And if you're looking for a dual use in order to justify packing this, realize that you could probably fight your way out of a bar with one of these things!
Just remember that the use of any door security device will delay emergency exits from (or entrances into) the room.
inflatable travel pillow
These make sleeping (or even resting) on the plane a lot more pleasant, and may augment your hotel pillow as well. They come in various types and shapes; I like the compact "Hedbed", depicted at right, though many prefer the collar style
that encircles the neck (a good one is Design Go's "The Snoozer", shown at left), and thus provides more head support. Inflatable pillows — which pack flat — travel better than those filled with foam, buckwheat hulls, or whatever. Be careful not to overinflate them on the ground, as they can burst when airborne (due to reduced cabin air pressure); slight underinflation makes them more comfortable anyway. A comfortable, removable, washable cover for your pillow can be a nice luxury, though it does add weight/bulk that is not strictly necessary.
Minimalists will want to know that a bandanna or other piece of cloth wrapped around an inflated aLOKSAK makes a pretty nice pillow as well.
hostel sleep sack (sleeping bag? bivouac sack? blanket? tent?)
If you want to sleep at a hostel, you are required to provide your own "sleep sack" (essentially a minimal sleeping bag, made from a folded sheet; in fact,they are sometimes sold as "sleeping bag liners"). They also protect the germ-conscious from airline blankets and suspect hotel beds. You can buy these made from silk: not inexpensive, but quite luxurious (many people use them in place of what's provided in their hotels and B&Bs), and — most importantly — extremely lightweight and space conserving. Mine weighs 6.3 ounces (180g) and measures (folded) about 6 × 8 × 0.8 inches (15 × 20 × 2cm); it opens to 86 × 35 inches (220 × 90cm). An investment for the serious traveller.
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