A Packing List

Tools

alarm clock/watch (batteries?)

Pay particular attention to the needs of your watch for batteries, as these are quite specialized; one is unlikely to be available when you most need it. It's also useful to know how to use your watch as a compass when the sun is shining. If you're inclined to wearing a Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin (or even a Rolex or TAG Heuer), you might consider something a bit less attractive to thieves when travelling far from home; an inexpensive Timex still keeps time very well.

A watch (or cell phone†, if you carry one) with a built-in alarm may well be the optimal go-light choice, but I've always been partial to a separate, easy-to-read-at-night travel alarm clock. I've tried several over the years, so can report with some confidence that you'll be hard pressed to find one better than the L.L.Bean Nightfinder II (pictured at right above in one of its many available colours). It provides both time (12/24-hour) and temperature (Fahrenheit/Celsius) displays, and folds very flat for packing (with all controls safely covered). When opened, you tap the front to illuminate the display for eight seconds, and/or initiate the alarm's "snooze" function. And adjusting the time and alarm settings is very quick and simple. I'd prefer that it used AA batteries, but its AAAs are an acceptable alternative, and this is a pretty minor complaint about a very well designed product. Business travellers may also find this a useful tool when giving presentations or the like: it's much less annoying/obtrusive than continually checking your watch.

A kitchen-type timer can also be used as an effective wake-up alarm, and makes it easier to keep track of how much you're sleeping!

† Some cell phones must remain on to be used as an alarm. With these, calls can awaken you earlier than you intended, so remember to use the phone's "airplane mode" if one is available.

flashlight, headstrap, extra batteries (bulbs?)

City dwellers in developed countries might be surprised at how dark most of the world gets when the sun goes down. A flashlight (torch) can often be a necessity, for navigating dark streets, late-night reading, finding your way to the toilet, coping with power failures (from simple to massive, like New York City, the London subway attacks, and post-Katrina New Orleans), exploring lava tubes in Hawai'i, and more. It's also handy for locating items in an overhead compartment on a night flight, finding small dropped objects on a flat floor (shine the beam parallel to the surface, and the resulting long shadows will make them stand out clearly, especially if you've first turned off the room lights), and conducting a bed bug search prior to retiring in an unfamiliar bedroom (the best way to find bedbugs is to search for them — especially in cracks and crevices — using a bright flashlight). I consider a good light to be an indispensable tool, especially given that one might well save your life in the event of a disaster like a hotel fire or plane crash.

For years I recommended the Mini Maglite® AA flashlight, a particularly elegant solution (especially given the widespread availability of AA-sized batteries), and still a low-cost choice.

Recently, however, the advent of high-intensity light-emitting diodes (LEDs) has revolutionized this market, not to mention flooding it with a huge variety of LED flashlight designs. Alas, it's not particularly easy to separate the wheat from the (considerable) chaff, though there are many who delight in spending countless hours discussing the subject. The difficulty lies in the several conflicting goals, especially brightness vs. battery life. Most of these flashlights target the "high brightness" end of the market; the traveller, though, has an overriding interest in battery concerns, both longevity and ubiquity (the latter pretty much mandating the AA size).

Good LED flashlights incorporate sophisticated battery management electronics, making them considerably more expensive than traditional incandescent models. The added cost brings considerable benefits, however:

• For a given amount of brightness, these lights consume electricity at a dramatically slower rate than the older technology; you will buy (and lug around) far fewer batteries over the years.
• LED emitters easily outlast conventional bulbs; they may well outlast you.
• Better models provide much greater flexibility of use, offering a variety of selectable light outputs; you can choose among low-power modes that will suffice for most uses (and yield phenomenal battery life) and high-power modes that will illuminate the darkest path, and almost blind anyone whose eyes happen to be hit directly by the beam.
• As their batteries weaken, LEDs gradually become dimmer; they don't fade as abruptly — and thus annoyingly — as incandescent bulbs.

I have recommended a variety of LED lights over the years, as the technology has evolved. I began with the second-generation Inova X1, which offered similar illumination to the classic Mini Maglite, using a single AA battery that lasted for 8 hours (the Maglite devoured two batteries in about an hour); unfortunately, the manufacturer again changed the design of this light, much to its detriment. I then advocated the Fenix L2D CE, an early exemplar of contemporary LED light design, subsequently replaced by the improved Fenix LD20, still an excellent light choice. I currently favour two models by 4Sevens, a long-time retailer of high-end LED lights that now designs and markets a brand of its own, with notable results.

The 4Sevens Quark AA² (shown in the centre at right, next to a U.S. 25¢ coin for size comparison) is an excellent design that provides a bright, well-focused output, five current-regulated illumination levels, four operating modes (continuous, strobe, beacon, and S-O-S), and uses a pair of AA batteries (alkaline, rechargeable NiMH, or lithium). This is not your father's flashlight! The batteries will still be producing light after an astonishing month(!) of continuous usage at the lowest power setting ("moonlight", which provides a fifth of a lumen of light, enough to read by in a darkened room); at its maximum setting, this light can deliver a blinding 206 lumens (but only for an hour or so: see chart below). The 0.86" (2.2cm) diameter black, type III hard-anodized, aircraft-grade T-6061 aluminum body is 5.8" (14.7cm) long, and weighs 3.8 ounces (109g) with batteries; thread edges are cut square to minimize the chance of damage when replacing batteries. It's also waterproof (to the IEC 60529 IPX8 standard), and its push-button tail cap switch is recessed into the body, reducing the chance of it being accidentally pressed (this also allows the flashlight to stand upright on a flat horizontal surface, serving as an "electronic candle"). The Quark AA² incorporates a reversible/removable spring clip, and comes complete with a belt holster, lanyard, rubber hand grip accessory, two spare O-rings, batteries, and a ten-year warranty. A superb light.

All of this said, I think that the Quark AA² is overkill for the majority of travellers (exceptions being serious flashlight enthusiasts and the terminally-gadget-addicted). For considerably less money you can buy a model that is every bit as good for the preponderance of lighting needs that typical travel is likely to engender. In addition to being two-thirds the price, it's only two-fifths the size and weight, easier to operate, and — with but a single moving part (compared to five) — elegant beyond description.

The 4Sevens Quark MiNi AA (pictured enlarged at left) sacrifices the two most extreme illumination levels of the AA² (along with a bit of battery efficiency that you are unlikely to notice); in other functional respects it is very much the same. Its three continuous-illumination levels are well-suited for late-night reading (low), normal navigation (medium), and emergency (high) needs. The MiNi AA is scarcely larger than the AA cell that powers it, with a slim, black, type III hard-anodized, aircraft-grade T-6061 aluminum body. It is a scant 0.7" (1.8cm) in diameter and 3" (7.6cm) long, weighing a mere 1.5 ounces (42.5g) with battery. It's also waterproof (to the IEC 60529 IPX8 standard), stands upright on a flat horizontal surface ("candle mode"), and comes complete with a lanyard, spare O-ring, battery, and ten-year warranty. Finally, an unadvertised feature: this light also works perfectly well with AAA cells, though with decreased run times; you may want to fill the unused space with a bit of tissue or such to prevent rattling, but it's not really necessary. I only wish that I could be there to see the smile that will cross your face when you first open the box containing this engineering delight: I consider it the most perfect travel flashlight that has yet been produced.

One final light for possible consideration is the newer Quark MiNi AA², which is just what its name implies: a longer (5" / 12.7cm), heavier (2.7 oz / 76g with batteries) version of the MiNi AA that takes two AA cells. It adds a strong spring clip, but forfeits the original's single-moving-part simplicity. What you gain from this is increased brightness (see above chart), albeit for comparable average lumen-hours (so you'll consume batteries more quickly, especially at the medium — and most common — brightness level). Given that it takes roughly a doubling of measured lumens to be noticeable to the eye, I think most travellers will prefer the smaller MiNi AA; those with more heavy-duty illumination needs will likely benefit from the power and flexibility of the original Quark (though at a somewhat greater cost).

With any flashlight, if you plan a lot of high-power usage, you'll be better served with rechargeable NiMH or lithium cells, which last longer when using the higher current modes. For that matter, lithium batteries are the best all-around choice for travellers: they're quite a bit lighter (a lithium AA is less than half the weight of a rechargeable), last longer, perform better in cold temperatures, don't leak when left unattended, and have a long (~15-year) shelf life. It's important, though, that your light be able to use off-the-shelf alkaline cells should the need arise, due to availability.

Periodic lubrication of the O-rings with a touch of inexpensive silicone grease (available at any hardware store) is a wise maintenance measure for high-quality lights of this type.

For those wondering what happened to MagLite during all of this LED revolution: they are still around, but thus far not producing anything that matches the performance of the leading LED light manufacturers. Their current top model in this class (the XL 100™) is more than three times the size of the Quark MiNi, two-and-a-half times as heavy, not as bright or as battery-efficient, considerably more complicated (and with more parts), and uses less-desirable AAA batteries.

The usefulness of any light is increased if you are able to operate it "hands-free". Alas, the excellent — inexpensive, lightweight, adjustable, comfortable, holds lights for both straight-ahead and angled-downward illumination — "Jakstrap®" (pictured at left with a Mini Maglite), was discontinued some time ago (though you may still be able to find a few remaining for sale). The newer NiteCore HB02 (pictured at right) is a bit of overkill for some tastes, but it's made — and works — well. Still another (even more elaborate, heavier, and pricier) option is the Fenix Headband.

Some address the "hands-free" desire by using a headband-style light, such as the popular Petzl Tikka Plus 2 LED Headlamp. Aside from its obvious single advantage, however, I don't think this solution stacks up well against the similarly-priced Quark light that I recommend. It's twice as heavy, considerably more bulky, less bright, less rugged (plastic), and non-waterproof; further, it offers fewer lighting modes, and uses three time as many (less-common AAA) batteries. I prefer the pocket-friendliness and greater flexibility of the MiNi AA.

knife, screwdrivers, pliers, scissors

Several mini-tools on the market offer differing, modest sets of tool functionality (though often including a knife). One that I have found useful is the simple, inexpensive Screwpop™ tool (pictured at left), which incorporates a 1/4" hex driver, plus #2 Phillips & slotted screwdriver bits, into a simple bottle opener. You can easily augment this 1.1 oz (30g) tool with additional driver bits to suit your specific needs (just be sure they're long enough that they won't disappear inside the shaft).

If your beverage preferences lean more towards corked containers than capped ones, you'll be well served by learning how to open a wine bottle without a corkscrew (a prohibited tool in some countries).

Pliers, especially decent adjustable models (the tongue and groove — aka rib joint — design is best), can prove very useful for making a variety of necessary repairs out on the road (as well as bending a wire coathanger into anything you might need!); they are, after all, the main reason that Leatherman tools displaced the Swiss Army knife. A reliable, high-quality version (pictured at left) is the tiny Channellock 424: a mere 4.5 inches (114mm) in length, it weighs in at a modest 1.89 oz (54g). Note that a rubber band wrapped around the handles of one of these converts it to an effective clamp, useful for putting pressure on items being glued, and holding things in position while you work on them.

If you wear glasses, and will be far from optometrists, bring something that can handle the associated screws, even if it's just one of those cheap/tiny eyeglass repair kits commonly available at pharmacies.

A pair of compact, folding scissors can be surprisingly useful. Realize, though, that they might not make it past airport security checks, depending on the country and its "rules of the day".

spoon (fork? chopsticks? spork?),
(coffee tin lid) plate or bowl

One sure way to reduce travel expenses is to limit the number of restaurant meals. Breakfast at your B&B is one way. Picnics are another. Cost savings aside, a lunch in the park, with fresh bread, cheese, yogurt, and fruit from the local shops, is likely to be more memorable than another tourist trap pizza. In addition to your knife, you will likely want a spoon; a good (light, strong) choice is one made from Lexan polycarbonate.

Optional utensils include a fork and a pair of chopsticks (or, as I prefer, the Japanese-style hashi). I am not an advocate of the conventional "spork" (though this spoon/fork combination has an undeniably catchy name, dating back to at least 1909). To me, it has always seemed a marriage of the worst of both instruments: a fork with too-short/thick tines that also serves as a spoon with drainage slots in the bowl. But clever Scandinavian designer Joachim Nordwall has come up with the Light My Fire® Spork (shown at right), a polycarbonate version that turns the usual configuration on its end, and even throws in a sort-of-knife (but not enough to excite airport security) for good measure. Available in a multitude of colours, it's strong, light, and (especially when purchased in a multipack) inexpensive. Getting a few extras is not a bad idea in any event, as you will likely use some as gifts: when people first see them, they invariably want one for themselves! It has been such a successful product that it now comes in a dizzying array of optional models: a larger size (1.25"/3cm longer), a children's size (which also omits the knife), a serving size (for those planning to host parties while travelling), and even a version for left-handers (with the knife edge on the opposite side, though I'm unconvinced that this makes a useful difference). They also come in alternative materials: a BPA-free Tritan version, and — most importantly — a pricier titanium version, which is considerably more rugged than the plastic models, thus probably the best choice for truly remote travel. Normally, though, I prefer the original (which is less than half the weight, and doesn't look strange on an X-ray search); just don't stress the centre portion too much.

What to eat on? Long-time travellers know that the plastic lids used to reseal large coffee (and other) tins make great plates on which to slice fruit, etc., but if you can tolerate a bit more weight (2.8 oz. / 8g), consider one of Sea to Summit's collapsible X Bowls (pictured at left), a modest-sized 6 × 2.25 inch (15 × 5.5cm) bowl that holds 22 fl. oz. (650ml) and packs reasonably flat (0.625 inch / 1.6cm). It joins a rigid, cut-resistant food-grade nylon base (which can be used as a cutting board) to walls made of flexible food-grade silicone (which withstand temperatures well above the boiling point, and make pouring liquids easy).

compass

Not just for backcountry hikers, a simple compass can be invaluable in helping you navigate the urban mazes of the world. When you emerge from the London subway onto Oxford Street for the first time, how will you otherwise know in which direction to walk to reach Selfridges? And although a compass is more generally useful, it's possible, if you know the correct time, to accurately orient yourself using the sun.

If you're a serious orienteer, and plan to carry a mirror compass, this can also meet your reflective needs for the trip. But urban travellers will save weight, space, and cost with a separate lightweight mirror.

whistle

A good whistle is a cheap security investment, able to sound an alarm, summon taxis, deter muggers & other unwanted attention, help others find you if you are lost or hurt, and even (as one reader commented) convince a doorman to let you depart a nightclub immediately, rather than wait around disputing your bill.

Louder is better: the loudest mouth-blown whistle you can buy is the justly famous 120dB "Storm", though, at approximately 3×2×7/8 inches, some will find it a bit large for everyday carrying. Excellent smaller alternatives are the 115dB "Fox 40 Mini" (2×3/4×5/8 inches, the one I carry), and even tinier 110dB "Fox 40 Micro" (2×1×3/8 inches, pictured at right). The Fox whistles have an additional advantage: they are "pea-less" (instead of a tiny internal ball, they create their warbling pitch using three sound chambers), which allows them to function even in extremely cold weather.

I simply carry my whistle in an easily-accessible pocket; if you'd prefer to wear yours around your neck, please be safe and use a breakaway neck lanyard.

door lock

The compleat traveller carries some sort of portable door lock. In addition to its most obvious use in places where the security may be less than what you would wish, one can also be helpful to secure doors in shared toilet facilities, keep small children safely contained, and even prevent a usually welcome travel companion from stumbling upon a potentially embarrassing situation. My favourite such device (all of the following work on doors that open inward) is the peculiarly named "Howsarlock" (seen at left), two tiny tethered pieces of reinforced nylon: one inserts in the latch hole of a door jamb, and the other wedges it in place there. Very ingenious, very elegant, very strong, and very light (a trifling 0.4 oz. / 12g). Another option, working on the same basic principle and slightly easier to deploy (though not as intuitive: you'll definitely need to read the instructions), is Rishon's "Addalock". This also works very well, but has several metal parts that can rust in the tropics, and is more than ten times the weight of the Howsarlock; it's also notably bulkier and pricier.

The budget solution (though neither as light nor as compact as the Howsarlock) is a simple, convenient wedge-type rubber door stop, jammed solidly under the door at night (as far from its hinges as possible), which will provide you with a good measure of additional protection against unexpected visitors. Doors are hung at various heights, so don't get one too thin. That said, rough/uneven floor surfaces (especially some types of carpet) reduce the efficiency of rubber wedges, possibly enabling a sufficiently motivated miscreant to force the door open anyway (although you are unlikely to sleep through the event). For more serious security along these lines, consider a Veritas® Traveller's Doorstop (pictured at right); this hefty (7.1 oz, 201g) chunk of solid aluminum features a hardened steel anti-slip screw adjustment to tighten the wedge against the door, and prevent slippage across the floor. A door thus secured will break long before it opens (someone trying hard enough might damage the carpet a bit, but better that than you). And if you're looking for a dual use in order to justify packing this, realize that you could probably fight your way out of a bar with one of these things!

Me, I'll stick with the Howsarlock. Just keep in mind that the use of any door security device will delay emergency exits from (or entrances into) the room.

inflatable travel pillow

These make sleeping (or even resting) on the plane a lot more pleasant, and may augment your hotel pillow as well. They come in various types and shapes; I like the compact "Hedbed", depicted at right, though many prefer the collar style that encircles the neck (a good one is the "Inflatable Komfort Kollar®", shown at left), and thus provides more head support (realize also that many pillows designed to elevate the back of the neck can be rotated to other positions that you may find more supportive). Ultimately, they're a very personal choice, more dependent on your personal sleeping habits than what the marketers would like you to believe. Magellan's offers a wide assortment of styles.

Inflatable pillows — which weigh less, and pack flat — travel better than those filled with foam, buckwheat hulls, or whatever. Be careful not to overinflate them on the ground, as they can burst when airborne (due to reduced cabin air pressure); slight underinflation usually makes them more comfortable anyway. A soft, removable, washable cover for your pillow can be a nice luxury, though it does add weight/bulk that is not strictly necessary.

Minimalists will want to know that a bandanna or other piece of cloth wrapped around an inflated aLOKSAK makes a pretty nice pillow as well.

sleep sack (sleeping bag? bivouac sack? blanket? tent?)

At one time, it was pretty standard for hostels to require that you use a "sleep sack" (essentially a minimal sleeping bag, made from a folded sheet; in fact, they are sometimes sold as "sleeping bag liners"). This is less true today (although some hostels still insist), but many folks like to carry one anyway, for a variety of good reasons:

• They isolate you from dodgy airline blankets and suspect hotel beds.
• They help to protect you from biting insects.
• In warm weather, they can be used in place of sheets and sleeping bags.
• In cold weather, they offer an additional layer of warmth.
• The nicer ones, made of luxurious silk, and pictured at right (which are also extremely lightweight and space-conserving), feel very nice on your skin, and can help you relax and get a good night's sleep. They come in double sizes as well.

Mine weighs 6.3 ounces (180g) and measures (folded) about 6 × 8 × 0.8 inches (15 × 20 × 2cm); it opens to 86 × 35 inches (220 × 90cm).

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